We touched down in Seoul and were immediately impressed by the Incheon Airport. This incredibly contemporary airport seems to double as an entertainment facility with a full-fledged ice rink. We hopped on the train to downtown Seoul and were met by a friend of a friend who took us out to traditional Korean dinner; including seafood and leak pancake, soybean paste soup and fried mackerel plus a dozen or so sides. It was simply delicious. On that note, we’ve had some incredible meals in Seoul. From Korean BBQ, to Bibimbap, Samgyetang (Ginseng Chicken Soup), Haemultang (Seafood Stew), among others. Since Japan had been our only other Asian experience, it’s natural that we will compare the two cultures. Needless to say, the South Korean cuisine appears fare more diversified, healthier and all around tastier.

Quick comment on our hotel. We don’t want to be complainers, but the hotel is Seoul was probably the worst we’ve ever stayed in. We read the reviews, did our research and it still stunk. It’s possible that since we requested the hotel staff to change our sheets three times within the first five minutes of checking in they responded by turning off our heat for the duration of our stay and pretending not to understand English. On top of that, we had our first “Wet” bathroom experience where the shower shares the same room as the toilet, sink, etc and therefore when the shower is on, everything gets wet! An adjustment indeed.

We spent the following day touring Seoul with another acquaintance, Joe (female) for short. She is a truly passionate South Korean and was a fantastic guide. We began the day with a viewing of the changing of the guards ceremony at a nearby palace. visited the Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace, lunch at the Gwangjang Market strolled through various flea markets and the Cheonggyeceon Stream. It was an action packed day which concluded with a traditional Korean BBQ. Other Seoul highlights included hiking Mt. Namsan and checked out a few more markets.

DMZ

Adena opted out of the Korean DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) tour, but I couldn’t resist the potential of a Communist spotting. There are a variety of tours offered; however, I chose one that visited the Joint Security Area (JSA) in Panmunjum where the two countries have met nearly 1,000 times over the last 60 years. Heading north out of Seoul, it didn’t take long before we were surrounded by a rural, farming area. As we moved through the various checkpoint and escorts, we were instructed on what we could and could not photograph. The tone was serious. When we eventually pulled up to the JSA we were allowed 5 minutes to photograph the JSA and the North Korean side. We were able to enter the buildings that straddle the border and where government meetings take place. More importantly, we were able to step over to the North Korean side (separated by a small concrete slab). It’s a surreal area, with constant surveillance by both sides. It’s amazing to think that this was once a single country and more recently that the troops were mixed within the JSA. Alas, the good old days are over and relations are quite poor.

Tonight we are in a small town about 4 hours Southeast of Seoul called Gyeongji and tomorrow we head to a Buddhist Temple for the night to do an overnight templestay program!