Full-service!

Sihanoukville Slum

Killing Fields Memorial

After a 12 hour bus ride through the Cambodian countryside, we finally made it to Sihanokville (aka Snooky), a beachside town in Southern Cambo.  While several of the beaches were made up of long strips of peaceful sand and clear water, the majority of the coastline (and town) was polluted with trash, unscrupulous vendors and questionable establishments. Poverty was surprisingly widespread for an area that attracts so many European tourists. It was not uncommon for us to drive around and see emaciated children and cattle roaming the streets, which were just a stone’s throw from the beach. However, we found our slivers of isolation and certainly enjoyed $1 beachside beers. One afternoon as we attempted to head into downtown to visit the main market, we were pulled over by the local police. They indicated that because we did not have an international driver’s license, we were not allowed to drive our rented scooter. Several police indicated that we owed them a $50 fine but we could pay them a smaller amount directly and they would let us go. Well … since we only had a $50 bill on us (not recommended in SE Asia) we claimed we would drive right over to the ATM and to take out our bribe money and would immediately return to pay the piper. Needless to say, we did not make it to the market that day and never returned to the checkpoint. On the plus side, we did receive $5 massages on the beach and you can’t beat that.

A few days later we made it to the capital city of Phnom Penh. It would be an understatement to say that this city and its people have been through a difficult time. As Pol Pot took control of Cambodia in 1975, he immediately evacuated the entire city and sent its inhabitants to the countryside. No sugar coating here, Phnom Penh is a rough place. While we strolled by some stunning French colonial architecture, beautiful palaces and a waterfront with some upside, the city is a chaotic compound of tuk tuk and scooter drivers and lung popping pollution. However, we did attend a beautiful performance called Plae Pakaa that included traditional Khmer dancing (see below).

We visited one of the Khmer Rouge’s “Killing Fields” and the S-21 Genocide Museum. Both visits were incredibly educational and powerful. The sheer brutality and torture of the Khmer Rouge is nearly unimaginable. It makes us wonder what this city and country would be like today if ¼ of its population had not been eliminated.

After 10 days in Cambodia, we are ready to move on to our next destination. Next up ‘Nam!